Flying Scotsman Glenfinnan viaduct
By Train through the Highlands
HIGHLAND
HERITAGE
WILDERNESS
COAST
Five nights and almost no driving — the journey is the West Highland Line. A private compartment from Glasgow to Mallaig, two nights on the coast at Arisaig, the sleeper north to Inverness, and a final stretch on the Far North Line with a thermos and a window seat. The slowest version of Scotland, and quietly the most rewarding.
A sense of the days
ARRIVAL — EDINBURGH
Met at the airport, into the Old Town by mid-afternoon. The hotel is a five-minute walk from Waverley Station, where tomorrow's train begins. Dinner in the New Town. An early night.
1
NORTH ON THE HIGHLAND MAINLINE
Three and a half hours up the spine of Scotland to Stirling, Perth, and Pitlochry. Then to the Cairngorm summits in the right window. Lunch on the train if the timing works. To Inverness by mid-afternoon. A hotel by the river.
2
THE KYLE LINE
Inverness to Kyle of Lochalsh on the line that nearly closed in 1973 and is the better for being kept open. Lunch in Plockton - the village with the palm trees that doesn't quite make sense. Return train in the afternoon. Dinner back in Inverness.
3
SOUTH AND WEST
A travel day. Highland Mainline south to Glasgow, then west onto the West Highland Line — the better train of the two. Lunch in Glasgow Queen Street if the timing works, or on board. To Fort William by evening. A hotel near the station.
4
ONWARD TO MALLAIG
The West Highland Line continues west to Mallaig with the Glenfinnan viaduct, Loch nan Uamh and the long descent to the sea. Lunch at the harbour with fresh prawns, in season. The return train through the afternoon. The view is different going back.
5
SOUTH TO GLASGOW
The West Highland Line in full, south across Rannoch Moor. The moor that the train crosses on stilts because nothing else can. Lunch on board. To Glasgow by mid-afternoon. An evening in the city, possibly more interesting than the brochures admit.